Kona Coffee: The Legacy of Kraig Lee and Kona Farm Direct

In the world of specialty coffee, few places evoke as much history and tradition as Kona, Hawaii. Nestled on the slopes of Hualalai, Kona’s rich volcanic soil and ideal climate have made it one of the most renowned coffee-growing regions in the world. At the heart of this legacy is Kraig Lee, founder of Kona Farm Direct, whose journey from a coffee hobbyist to a 30-year veteran of Hawaiian coffee embodies passion, innovation, and an unwavering dedication to quality.

From Carpenter to Coffee Farmer

Kraig Lee’s story begins in his early 20s when an opportunity arose to purchase an eight-acre property in Kona with his in-laws. A skilled carpenter by trade, Kraig built two houses on the land before facing a crucial decision: what to grow on their newly acquired agricultural property. Pineapples? Macadamia nuts? Instead, they chose coffee—specifically, the legendary Kona Typica.

This decision, initially made on a whim, soon turned into a lifelong passion. Encouraged by neighboring farmers who helped plant the first trees, Kraig immersed himself in the Kona coffee community. By the year 2000, just three years into production, his farm won first place in the prestigious Kona Coffee Cupping Competition, a victory that propelled him deeper into the world of specialty coffee.

Managing Farms and Expanding the Kona Coffee Legacy

Kona is home to approximately 600 coffee farms, ranging from small, family-owned plots to large commercial estates. Over time, Kraig expanded his expertise beyond his own land, managing eight additional farms and consulting for others. His role is comprehensive—overseeing farm maintenance, harvesting, processing, and even sales.

The process is meticulous, with each farmer's lot carefully labeled and tracked to ensure complete traceability. “Our storeroom is organized chaos,” Kraig jokes, emphasizing the importance of keeping every farm’s coffee distinct and accounted for.

Challenges and Triumphs in Kona Coffee Production

Producing coffee in Hawaii is an expensive endeavor. With U.S. labor laws and Hawaii-specific regulations, the cost of production is significantly higher than in many other coffee-growing regions. Wages, healthcare benefits, and costly agricultural imports drive up expenses, making Kona coffee among the most expensive in the world. The cost of producing a pound of Kona coffee can range between $15 and $20, with lower-grade Kona selling at break-even prices. However, premium lots, such as Peaberry and SL34, command higher margins, making them crucial for profitability. Today, green Kona coffee can fetch between $20 and $30 per pound, with top lots commanding even higher prices.

Despite these costs, Kraig has managed to navigate the financial complexities of farming by diversifying his business model. He sells both green and roasted coffee, operates farm tours, and offers direct-to-consumer sales through his Kona Farm Direct website. His deep knowledge of carpentry has also played a crucial role, allowing him to build much of his own processing infrastructure, including drying decks, warehouses, and custom-designed coffee dryers.

Innovation in Processing: SL34 and Experimental Fermentations

While Kona is traditionally known for its washed Kona Typica, Kraig has embraced experimentation, particularly with the SL34 variety. Originally mistaken for SL28, the SL34 lineage was confirmed through genetic testing, and Kraig has since championed this vibrant, fruit-forward variety.

To enhance the complexity of his coffees, Kraig employs anaerobic fermentation techniques, inoculating SL34 with VIN13 yeast and fermenting it for up to 60 hours. He has also pioneered the use of household furnaces—normally found in homes—to create efficient, consistent drying conditions for his coffee, a method that has been widely adopted by other Kona farmers.

Kona Coffee’s Future and the Global Specialty Market

While Kona coffee has long been celebrated in the U.S. and Japan, Kraig sees emerging opportunities in markets like the Middle East. His participation in the Dubai Coffee Auction marks an important step in introducing high-end Kona coffees to a global audience.

The Dubai Coffee Auction by DMCC on March 13th

Don’t miss the opportunity to register for the auction and bid on one of the most unique and complex coffees to come out of Hawaii. Be part of this exciting moment in Kona’s specialty coffee evolution! Register and secure your exclusive sample now.

Register & Buy Sample Set

Join Kraig Lee on The Cupping Table – a podcast by M-Cultivo.

Join us at The Cupping Table as we speak with Kraig Lee, founder of Kona Farm Direct, about his mission to showcase Kona’s place among the world’s most sought-after coffees. With over 30 years of experience, Kraig has pushed the boundaries of what Kona coffee can be—experimenting with SL34, pioneering innovative fermentation techniques, and bringing premium Kona lots to international auctions Tune in to explore the journey of Kona coffee, the challenges and opportunities ahead, and why now its moment the to shine.