Hacienda La Esmeralda | Best of Panama's first ever Triple Crown

A deep dive into the meticulous preparation, terroir philosophy, and 20-year journey that led to a historic Best of Panama competition.

The Peterson family is synonymous with the rise of Geisha coffee, and they recently achieved a monumental milestone: winning first place in all three categories of the Best of Panama competition—Washed Geisha, Natural Geisha, and Varietal. Rachel described the moment as "extraordinary… literally a dream." This historic "Triple Crown" wasn't just a win; it was a testament to a philosophy honed over decades. Their Laurina varietal, a low-caffeine, floral, and silky coffee that narrowly clinched the top spot. But the true poetry was in the Geisha categories, where the same lot, from their seventh picking, was split to win both the washed and natural competitions—a nearly impossible feat.

How does a farm prepare for a competition of this caliber? For the Peterson family, it's a game of inches, blending deep agricultural knowledge with strategic decision-making. The process starts with a simple rule: a lot must have at least 42 kilos to qualify. From there, it becomes a meticulous process of cupping and evaluation. Rachel explained they aim for the "middle of the crop," typically the fourth or fifth picking, which consistently cups better. For their winning Geishas, the selection was so critical and the lot so small that they only cupped it twice before submission to preserve quantity. The final decision balances the immediate "wow factor" of aromatics against a coffee's endurance on the cupping table. The winning 'Nilo' lot was chosen for its elegance and acidity, traits they believed would hold up under the scrutiny of international judges over a long cupping session. This highlights the incredible challenge producers face in managing inventory and quality control.

A Dream-Like Victory: The Triple Crown

The competition isn't just about flavor; it's about integrity. Rachel, who sits on the Best of Panama rules committee, is a passionate advocate for terroir expression. She emphasized that while you can get a "wow factor" from aggressive fermentation, Esmeralda is focused on clean fermentations that let the coffee's inherent florality shine through. This philosophy is at the heart of the competition's rules, which prohibit adding anything foreign to the coffee. This stance has become a flashpoint in the industry, but Rachel's perspective is clear: producers can innovate as they wish, but a competition celebrating terroir must have standards. This debate echoes Geisha's own origin story. In 2004, its unprecedented floral notes were nearly dismissed for being atypical of Panamanian coffee. It took the right people at the right time to recognize it as something special. Today, the challenge has shifted to using science—like genetic testing—to ensure the coffees competing are what they claim to be, preserving the integrity and trust the competition is built on.

The Art and Science of Selection

Building an internationally recognized brand like Hacienda La Esmeralda doesn't happen overnight. Rachel credits their success to a combination of passion, collaboration, and consistency. Twenty years ago, the goal was simply to get Panama recognized as a coffee-producing country. The turning point was the decision to launch their own private auction in 2008. This opened doors to new markets and allowed them to build direct relationships with buyers globally. This is where Rachel's advice becomes invaluable for other producers. Instead of chasing broad market trends, she focuses on knowing her individual clients. By understanding a buyer's palate—whether they prefer a clean, floral washed coffee or a fruit-forward natural—she can tailor offerings and build lasting partnerships. This deep level of client relationship management, knowing what someone bought last year and what they might love this year, is the future of specialty coffee.